All crammed into the lift, we descended into the earth. It smelled like cold rock and old air. Five of us, elbow to elbow. No one said a word.

The Wonder Cave

We drove 45 minutes out of Pretoria. Turning onto the reserve, tar gave way to dirt roads as signs guided us toward the Wonder Cave. The parking lot was shaded by trees. There were four of us. The building next to the lot was quiet—no staff, no other visitors. Where are the people? I wondered.

The guide dropped the light. It was pitch black. The cave was cold, and I could hear drops falling. The path twisted down and around in ways that made it hard to know how deep we were going. Then the guide stopped and pointed his torch at the cave floor.

There, embedded in the cave floor, was a fossilised baboon skeleton. It had fallen in hundreds of years ago, broken its leg in the drop, and never got out. The guide said it was the only one ever found here. Nobody said anything for a moment.

The furthest point of the cave had a narrow opening big enough for a human to crawl through, and this point is believed to be connected to the Sterkfontein cave around 9 km away. This link is still being explored and mapped.

The Self-Guided Safari Drive

Leaving the Wonder Cave, we got back onto the dirt road and made our way to the brown lions’ enclosure. We stopped in front of a three-metre-high gate. There were guides located at the gate briefing us on what not to do driving among dangerous wildlife. The gate opened, and onward we drove. It was not long before we had our first sighting. Brown lions—it was a pity they were too far away for us to get proper images.

We stopped at another big gate. This was the wild dogs’ enclosure. We took a loop looking for them, but they were nowhere to be found. I guess they had better things to do than look all wild dogs for us on this day. They were completely missing in action, and we moved on to the white lions’ enclosure.

Another big gate. This looked promising, as we could see the lions as we entered the gate. We got as close as the road allowed and got some proper images. They looked beautiful as the wind was blowing their manes. Onwards to the Cheetah enclosure.

More big gates opened and closed behind us. We took all the dirt roads we could find in this enclosure. This was a bit disappointing, as we could not locate any Cheetahs. I guess they were in a mood and decided to keep a low profile. We started making our way to the Wildlife Centre and had to move through the brown lion enclosure to get there.

This was the highlight of the self-guided safari because the previous brown lions were now right next to the road, lying in the shade. We managed to stop a mere two metres away from them and got the best shots of the day. Their heads and paws were so big. They seemed calm and could not be bothered by our presence. It was nerve-racking to be so close to them. Everyone in the car stayed silent as we were observing them. Then suddenly one of the passengers said, “Okay, it’s time to move on. I’m starting to feel uncomfortable,” and I think everyone in the car at that point felt the same. Not to push our luck, we decided to move on to the Wildlife Centre.

The Wildlife Centre

The Wildlife Centre housed a variety of animals. The ones that stood out to me were the two white tigers as we entered the centre. They were beautiful big cats. There was not much going on in their enclosure. They were just lying there taking in the sun. I noticed they had a pool in their enclosure. I guess they enjoyed a swim every now and then. It made sense given the hot African sun.

We moved on and to my surprise there were cheetahs which made up for not finding them on our safari drive. There were lots of bird species and a reptile section with many venomous snakes. What stood out to me was the albino python with its white and yellow colours. Its head was completely yellow. It was a big snake and it almost looked dead as it lay there all curled up next to the glass of the enclosure.

Next to the Wildlife Centre was a picnic area. Here we sat, had a few cold drinks, and decided our next move.

The Curio Shop

We decided it was time to move on. On our way out I decided it was necessary to make a final pit stop looking for a Bothongo Rhino & Lion fridge magnet. I like to collect location-specific fridge magnets everywhere I go. 

We stopped at the welcome centre. There we popped into the Shuu-Lo Curio Shop. I found fridge magnets resembling the wildlife but nothing branded. A branded magnet was apparently too much to ask. The wildlife was spectacular — the merchandise, less so.

Last Thoughts

This adventure is suited for all ages, but I don’t think young children will enjoy the Wonder Cave. There are 87 steps down and another 18 metre lift ride down into the cave. Then what goes down into the cave must come up. There was a lot of history and geological knowledge shared. Once they’d settled in they would likely zone out. I think the cave experience is more for older children and adults. If they could keep it cool for forty-five minutes it could work.

The rest of the reserve’s offerings should be fine as long as the game drive does not take too long. It’s worth the entry fee — just go in with realistic expectations and patience for wildlife that doesn’t always cooperate.

When I first bought the tickets I thought they were a bit steep. After spending some time on the reserve and seeing what it takes I couldn’t help thinking what it must cost to keep it going. I would like to come back when they feed the big cats — I think it might be something to see. Next time around I would plan better and make proper use of the picnic and braai area.

The lift going down was silent because nobody knew what to expect. The lift going back up was silent for a different reason. Go find out why.

Practical Guide

Bothongo Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve
Location: 520 Kromdraai Road, Kromdraai, Krugersdorp, 1739, View on Google Maps
Duration: 6-8 hours
Best Time to Visit: Open year-round. Morning visits recommended — cooler temperatures and more active wildlife.

Getting There
Nearest Town: Krugersdorp
GPS is reliable to the reserve entrance. Once inside, dirt roads are well signed — just follow the directions to each attraction.
Parking: Free with entrance fee and secure.

What to Expect
The Wondercave
Tours last approximately 45 minutes. The path inside is uneven and the route involves descending 87 steps followed by an 18-metre lift ride down into the cave. The lift fits around 5 people comfortably — 6 might feel tight and claustrophobic. Not recommended for young children or anyone uncomfortable in enclosed spaces.
The Self-Guided Safari Drive
You will need your own vehicle. The drive covers the main enclosures and can take anywhere from 2–3 hours depending on how much time you spend at each sighting. Guided safari options are also available if you prefer to leave the driving to someone else.
The Wildlife Centre
Mostly flat walking across a compact area. Expect to spend 1–2 hours exploring the enclosures at a relaxed pace.
General
The reserve is large and spread out. You will spend a fair amount of time driving between the Wonder Cave, the safari enclosures, and the Wildlife Centre. Factor that into your planning — this is a full day out, not a quick stop. 

What to Bring
Clothing: The cave is cold — bring a light jacket or layer you can tie around your waist once you’re back outside. Closed shoes are essential for the uneven cave path.
Gear: No specialised gear required. The cave is well lit and the guide provides everything needed for the tour.
Camera: You will want one — especially for the safari drive. A zoom lens helps for animals that keep their distance.
Food and Water: You can bring your own or eat on site. The reserve has restaurant options as well as a picnic and braai area if you want to make a day of it. Bring sunscreen for the outdoor sections.

Good to Know 
Make a Day of It
Start with the first Wonder Cave tour at 09:00, then head straight into the self-guided safari drive. Be patient — wildlife is sometimes shy and occasionally nowhere to be found. Budget 2–3 hours for the drive.
Predator Feeding
Predator feeding takes place at 13:00. Arrive early — this is a popular attraction and fills up quickly.
Families with Young Children
The Neck & Deck Restaurant has a play area and feeds giraffes — children love it. The picnic area also has a swimming pool and play area. Both are located next to the Wildlife Centre.
Nearby Attractions
The Sterkfontein Caves are approximately 9 km away and worth combining with a visit if you have the time.
One Last Thing
If you collect fridge magnets, don’t expect a branded one. The Shuu-Lo Curio Shop has wildlife magnets but nothing specific to Bothongo. You’ve been warned.

Cost and Bookings 
Entry Fee: R520 per person (correct at time of writing). This includes the Wonder Cave guided tour, access to the self-guided safari drive, the Wildlife Centre, and predator feeding viewing at 13:00.
Booking: Recommended to book online via the official website to secure your preferred time slot. Walk-ins may be available but are not guaranteed.
Time Slots: Cave tours run every hour from 09:00. A maximum of 40 people per time slot — book early for peak weekends and school holidays.