Wathaba Hiking Trails: Lynx Loop & Bosbok Trail Near Machadodorp, Mpumalanga – How It Went…

The water is the colour of strong tea, and I can’t see the bottom. It’s cold. I reach down with my feet, feeling for a rock, anything to stand on. Nothing. Somewhere below me it’s more than 2m deep.

The plan was to beat the long-weekend traffic. Thursday the 24th was Heritage Day, and the roads out of the city are never quiet on a long weekend, so I collected a fellow hiker at 07:30 and we headed out.

We pulled into Millys just after 10:00. Being early turned out to matter. The restaurant was already full, so we added our names to the list and waited for Thomas to find us a table. He found one quickly. From 11:00 the rest of our breakfast group trickled in, and Priscilla, our waiter, looped in and out of a table that kept getting longer, doing her best to keep up. We waited for drinks, waited for food, and used the time to catch up.

2 hours later we moved over to the Millys Country Trout Stall. I went looking for what I always look for: a fridge magnet with the venue’s name on it. I found one, bought a few things for the family back home, and waited outside while everyone else finished shopping. We walked down to the dam for photos.

Wathaba is about 26km down the road. The turn-off is a 180-degree left onto a dirt road that drops steeply, paved in patches. Reception is at the bottom: grass, a few trees, and the river running alongside. I could hear it and see it flowing as we got out. We arrived just before 14:00.

I’d done my homework. The website and Facebook page showed plenty of water, rock pools and tree cover. It looked good.

Then came the usual meet and greet, mostly familiar faces, 17 of us in total. Rooms were shared, bags were unpacked, drinks were poured, and we found seats around the braai area and worked our way towards the evening’s braai. Later there was a warm shower, heated by a wood-fired donkey boiler. The other donkeys, the local residents, came by after dark for carrots. I slept semi-well. Friday was Lynx.

Day 1: Lynx Trail (Friday)

I was awake around 05:00. Not long after, the camp started moving and we slowly started to get things done. Breakfast was coffee and rusks, and then came the packing: water with electrolytes, trail snacks, backpack, hiking pole. We gathered at the start of the trail, took a group photo, and got going.

The trail started flat, following the river, with a few wooden bridges to cross. Then it began to climb, gradually. Under the trees it was cool. You could hear birds, the river, and every now and then a waterfall somewhere ahead. Small falls and rock pools kept appearing along the way.

The 653m of climbing never arrived all at once. The trail spread it out, and I never felt it was too much. We also stopped often: to get our heart rates down, drink some water, look at the view, and maybe take a photo. Strava logged just over 3 hours of moving time and nearly 7 hours out on the trail. Most of the difference was spent standing still on purpose.

As we made our way up, I tried to teach 2 fellow hikers something: SIS SIF. Slow Is Smooth, Smooth Is Fast. The saying is usually credited to the US Navy SEALs, and the idea is simple: don’t rush, move cleanly, and you end up faster than if you’d hurried. It just so happened that I filmed some of it, since I was making videos along the trail anyway. “Slow is important and steady is fast” was one version that came back. “Stop informing everyone on your funny…” was another. According to a fellow hiker, I change it every time I say it. I don’t.

At the highest point, about 4km in, we took a break and a few photos. Out of the trees it was drier and warmer, with not much wind. We had good weather all weekend.

From there the trail dropped into a gorge. Around midday we stopped near the Cascades, at a waterfall with a rock pool below it, and swam. That’s the water I couldn’t find the bottom of. Lunch happened there too. Some of it, not all of it. Trail snacks tend to get eaten a bit at a time along the way, not in one sitting.

We were back in camp around 14:30. A fellow hiker and I went to see what the shop had to offer. I was looking for a fridge magnet, and they had one with the Wathaba branding on it. I bought it, along with a Wathaba enamel mug and a few smaller things.

Then it was drinks, the braai area, catching up, and working our way towards the evening’s braai. Pretty much the same as the night before.

Day 2: Bosbok Trail (Saturday)

The morning started at about the same time. A few of the less regular hiking members were stiff, and 1 decided to sit this one out.

Bosbok didn’t ease us in. It climbed from the start. Then it settled into the river, following it upstream through the gorge, under heavy tree cover and across wooden bridges, all the way to the pool. The walk back was downhill.

You hear it before you see it. Somewhere ahead, past the trees and the rock, there’s a waterfall, and with every step the sound gets louder. Then the gorge opens up. A large rock pool fills the space between 2 cliff walls. At the far end, a narrow waterfall drops into it. The sign just before the pool said Bald Ibis Gorge.

5 of us are going in. Some of the others take photos and watch us get in. Nobody says anything. They probably think we’re nuts.

I go in slowly, feeling for the rocks underfoot, trying to get used to the cold. For some reason this water feels extra cold. Maybe it’s because the sun barely reaches this pool.

Then it’s a swim across to the far side, where the waterfall is. There are more boulders to get over before we’re close enough. We squeeze in for an “onsie”: 5 faces, 1 GoPro, the waterfall coming down behind us. It takes maximum effort from us to get it done. The screen keeps collecting water droplets, so we keep wiping it off, waiting for the right moment to take the shot.

I can’t come all this way, hike the trail, and not get in. To me, this is part of the trail.

Should You Go?

Wathaba has 2 trails, and they suit 2 different hikers.

Lynx is for the regular, moderately fit hiker. It has everything Bosbok has, plus a climb, and it will keep you on the trail all day. The climb is gradual, so it never felt like too much, but 653m is 653m. Take your time. This is supposed to be fun.

Bosbok is easy to moderate: a comfortable walk through the gorge, along the river, under the trees. It takes about half a day. It reminds me of the 4km trail at Wolwespruit in Pretoria, except Wathaba’s version is 10x better: a lot more water, more river crossings, more tree cover, more green. It’s a trail you can take beginner hikers on, and they should have a good experience. If you only have 1 day, pick based on your fitness and whether you want a challenge.

There’s not much I’d warn a friend about. The drive down to reception is a bit scary at first, especially the first time, but it’s fine. On the Saturday morning a truck went down and back up that same road. The only cold water was where we swam. The showers were hot as long as we kept the donkey going, and it worked surprisingly well. Water pressure drops when everyone showers at once, but it’s still 5 stars compared to some venues I’ve stayed at.

The 1 real problem came on the Friday night: the toilets blocked, and water kept pushing back up. I recall lying in bed thinking that 02:00 would not be a good time to need a number 2, and I could already see myself in emergency wild-camping mode, digging a hole in the dark. Not ideal. Early the next morning, venue management was on it. The toilets were working again before we left for the hike, and when we got back from Bosbok at midday, that same truck was draining the septic tank. I was impressed with how quickly it was sorted.

Kudos to Adriana, our go-to for all things Wathaba, good or bad. And to Happy, for keeping us supplied with wood for the fires and ice to keep things cold.

Would I go back? Definitely. Wathaba is way up there among my favourites. I’m already thinking about which old friends to bring.

The weekend went by fast. There was nothing particular about Sunday morning. It was the usual low point of a trip: packing, checking everything was packed, a final sweep, the goodbyes, and then the drive home, going back over everything that happened.

On the way back we gave Millys and Alzu a skip. On a long weekend those N4 stops are simply too busy, and you’re going to wait a while for your fancy coffee. We stopped at the Shell Ultra City in Middelburg instead, had something to eat and drink for breakfast, said our final goodbyes, and got back on the road to Pretoria.

The Wathaba magnet is on the fridge now, with the rest of the collection. The mug isn’t in use. For now it sits on the gear rack, more souvenir than cup. A way to remember.

Practical Guide – Wathaba Trails

The Basics

Lynx Loop

• Distance: 10km official (9.2km on my Strava)
• Elevation gain: 653m
• Time on trail: All day: about 3h moving, 6h45 with stops and a swim
• Difficulty: Moderate: for regular, moderately fit hikers
• Trail marking: Purple (Lynx Footprint)

Bosbok Trail (Bosbok Roete)

• Distance: 4km official (4.6km on my Strava)
• Elevation gain: 248m
• Time on trail: Half a day: about 1h40 moving, 3h45 with stops and a swim
• Difficulty: Easy to moderate: a good first trail for beginners
• Trail marking: Yellow (Bosbok Footprint)

• Location: Wathaba Hiking Trails, Skurweberg Mountains, between Machadodorp and Badplaas, Mpumalanga
• Best time to go: We went in late September and had warm, dry days with cold water. According to the venue, the pools are refreshing in summer and very cold in winter.

Getting There

• From Pretoria/Johannesburg: 2 to 3 hours via the N4. Wathaba is 20.8km from Machadodorp on the road to Badplaas (R541).
• Navigation: Google Maps will get you to the entrance.
• The turn-off: A sharp, almost 180-degree left onto a dirt road with a steep descent, paved in patches. Take it slowly. A normal car will manage.
• Parking: At reception, at the bottom of the road.

The Trails

• Surface: Forest paths along the river, wooden bridges and river crossings, then rockier and drier on the high ground.
• Technical Sections: Wooden ladders in places on Lynx. No chains. My feet stayed dry at the river crossings.
• Navigation: Both trails are well marked. We had no trouble following them.
• Lynx Route: It climbs to the highest point, around 4km in. After that it’s mostly downhill, with a swim stop in the gorge.
• Lynx Landmarks: Fertility Falls, Kiepersol Val, Varing Val, Laaste Water, Frits se Trappe, Wimpie’s View, Yellowwood Forest, the Cascades Waterval (our Day 1 swim spot), Feetjie Val and Donkey Highway.
• Bosbok Route: A steady climb at the start, then upstream along the river to the rock pool and waterfall in Bald Ibis Gorge, and downhill all the way back.
• Bosbok Landmarks: Wathaba Rainbow Falls, Kabouterland, Guise se Swemgat, Zig Zag, Chicken Run, Skateboard Bridge and Fairy Forest.
• Water on Lynx: Laaste Water, around 3km in, is marked on the map as the last place to fill your water bottles.

What to Bring

On The Trail

• Day pack, at least 2L of water (electrolytes help on Lynx), and trail snacks
• Trail runners or hiking boots (I wore trail runners), and a hiking pole
• Sun hat and sunblock
• Swimwear and a towel if you plan to swim

For Kiepersol Camp

• Sleeping bag, pillow and extra blankets (nights can turn cold)
• Shower towels and toiletries
• All your food and drinks (it’s self-catering)
• Your own cutlery, crockery, glasses and drying cloths
• A cooler box
• Torch or headlamp, power banks and spare batteries
• Camp shoes and camping chairs (optional)
• Fire lighters and charcoal
• Cash

Wathaba Accommodation: Kiepersol Camp

• Rooms: Sleeps 12 to 24 in 4 shared rooms plus a loft. Mattresses with clean covers are supplied. Rooms are shared within your own group only.
• Power: No electricity, only solar lights. Bring extra lighting in case of overcast days.
• Showers: 3 showers and a zinc bath, heated by a wood-fired donkey geyser. Firewood is supplied, but use it sparingly.
• Toilets: At a shared ablution block, with 1 locked toilet for Kiepersol only.
• Kitchen: 2-plate gas stove, a few pots and pans, a kettle and a braai grid, plus a large boma and braai area.
• Rules: Minimum 2 nights (3 on long weekends). No pets, no exceptions. No music or loud noise. No fishing. No balloons. Everyone entering the farm must complete an indemnity form on arrival, including children.

Good to Know

• Drinking Water: The venue says all the water on the farm is safe to drink.
• Cell Signal: Spotty at camp, better higher up on the trail.
• Wildlife: We saw no snakes or wild animals. The donkeys visit camp in the evenings and early mornings, so bring carrots.
• The Shop: Wathaba-branded fridge magnets (R35), key rings (R35), badges (R60), mugs (R140) and hiking sticks (R150). The merch board says cash, card or EFT.
• On The Way:
  • Millys on the N4: A restaurant, trout stall and dam near Machadodorp, about 26km from Wathaba.
  • Alzu Petroport on the N4: Has a family of white rhinos on site, so look out for the baby.
  • Both get very busy on long weekends. We stopped at the Shell Ultra City in Middelburg on the way home instead.

Wathaba Day Hikes, Cost and Booking

Prices correct at time of writing (October 2026).

• Day Hikes: R125 adults, R70 children under 12. Cash only, booking essential, no walk-ins.
• Accommodation: From R265 to R550 per person per night, depending on the unit. 50% deposit to book, balance due 1 month before arrival.
• Our Trip: Booked through the Centurion Hiking Club at R1,050 per person for 3 nights at Kiepersol Camp, including hiking permits.
• Extras: Ice R20 a bag (cash only), extra firewood R60 a wheelbarrow.
• Wathaba Contact Details:
  • Day hike bookings: Christia, 078 787 3567
  • Accommodation bookings: Liesl, 083 483 7753 (WhatsApp)
  • Email: wathabahikingtrails@gmail.com

The Verdict

• Do Lynx if you hike regularly and want a full day with waterfalls, swimming and a climb.
• Do Bosbok if you’re new to hiking, short on time, or want an easy half day by the river.
• Skip it if you need plugs and Wi-Fi. The camps run on gas, fire and solar.

Frequently Asked Questions – Wathaba Hiking Trails

Where is Wathaba Hiking Trails located?
Wathaba is in the Skurweberg Mountains in Mpumalanga, 20.8km from Machadodorp (eNtokozweni) on the R541 towards Badplaas. From Pretoria or Johannesburg it’s 2 to 3 hours on the N4. Google Maps will get you to the entrance. After that it’s a sharp left and a steep dirt road down to reception.

How long are the hiking trails at Wathaba?
There are 2. The Lynx Loop is 10km, and with stops and a swim it took us most of the day: about 3 hours moving and nearly 7 hours out. The Bosbok Trail (Bosbok Roete) is 4km. It’s half a day if you stop to swim, as we did.

Are day hikes allowed at Wathaba Hiking Trails?
Yes, but you have to book in advance. There are no walk-ins, and it’s cash only. At the time of writing it’s R125 for adults and R70 for children under 12. Book with Christia on 078 787 3567.

Is Wathaba Hiking Trails suitable for beginners and children?
The Bosbok Trail is. It’s a comfortable walk along the river, under the trees and across wooden bridges. It’s a trail you can take beginner hikers on, and they should have a good experience. Lynx is better suited to regular, moderately fit hikers. It’s longer, has 653m of climbing and wooden ladders in places, and will keep you out all day.

What accommodation options are available at Wathaba?
Wathaba has private cabins and cottages (Mountain Creek Cabin, Valley View Cottage, Moonlight Hideaway and Bloubos Retreat) with electricity and full kitchens. It also has larger group options (Bottlebrush Haven, and the Kiepersol and Waterbessie hiking camps on the Schoonspruit). The hiking camps have no electricity, only solar lights, a gas stove and showers heated by a donkey geyser. It’s all self-catering, with a 2-night minimum. We stayed at Kiepersol Camp, which sleeps 12 to 24.